In which we row, row, row some boats.

T'was a most photogenic weekend. Saturday afternoon was spent exploring Hamburg's carless streets (see previous post); Sunday afternoon was spent -- somewhat spontaneously -- with a group of German and American Fbright alums exploring Hamburg's carless canals in canoes. I'd done this a couple times before, but not for a long time and, to put it simply: what a pleasure. The day was overcast, but the Alster was full of happy canoes, kayaks, stand-up paddlers, and steam boats. One highlight/delight was a canoe-thru café where you could ring a bell on the wall and order ice cream, coffee, cake, beer, whatever from the window above. Another delight: being reminded how much I love this city.

The weekend concluded pretty spectacularly with an intimate, wine-filled, donation-based, pop-up "living room" jazz concert in a newly opened, very grand Steinway piano repair shop about a 5-minute walk from my apartment. The adjectives go on. 

As the Germans would say, "I am a lucky mushroom".

In which we get a protest, a city tour, and a healthy dose of vitamin D.

Dunno if it made the news in the US what with the Very Important Media Coverage of Donald Trump formally announcing that Barack Obama was born in the US (which, ugh.), or the detailed health reports of the presidential candidates (which, just, ughh.)..., but today, hundreds of thousands of people took to the streets in Germany to protest the shady and, well, less-than-democratic creations/formulations of the TTIP and CETA trade agreements, not to mention some of the eyebrow-raising to downright frightening rules they could put in place in the world. In total, the number 320,000 protesters across the country is being thrown around, with numbers from 30,000 to 65,000 people in Hamburg alone. I don't know how they count these things (and that is a rather significant difference, eh?), but frankly, I don't care for the digits. What moved me was the damn lot of people taking to the streets in this city that I love, all kinds of people, peacefully standing up for their rights, using their voices and bodies as symbols as they, as we, filled the streets. I'm not pretending to be terribly informed on the subject. I'm not -- most everything I know about it I learned today from the internet, from my friend with whom I went a-marching, and from the tens of thousands of other people marching with us. 

Here are a few impressions taken along the way, on a beautiful day in the Hansestadt.

("Daddyyy, protesting makes me soooo sleepy.")

P.S. And while we're on the topic of pretty/inspirational things, how about a spice-ily spectacular ginger plum square?

In which a glorious spring weekend in Brussels gets the nostalgia pumping.

Three months ago, the stars aligned over Bruxelles and I found myself on a plane to that fair city on somewhat short notice. On this one weekend in early May, my Hamburg-based theater group was scheduled to compete there at an international festival for theatrical swags, and one of my favorite musicians was playing a concert. A wonderful friend from my year in Belgium has been living in the capital for a while and kindly offered to let me stay, at which point fate had its way and I bought my plane tickets.

On that Friday fine I went to work as per usual, then headed to the nearby airport and caught a plane to Amsterdam and then another to Brussels. I had expected the heightened military/police at the airport following the attacks in March, but it was still a very surreal experience to go through the echoey halls, shops open but empty in the arrivals hall that was still off limits to anyone other than arriving passengers. The first point of contact with the outside world was on the park deck outside the building, where a makeshift arrivals gate had been set up and was guarded by heavily-armed, uniformed police and soldiers. My friend met me there on foot and together we headed to the train station while I tried not to stare at all the guns.

From there we made our way through the city to the venue where the theater festival was taking place and made it in time for the evening's performances. Being there with my friend from my Belgium days a decade (!) ago and a large number of friends from my current life in Hamburg was pretty hard for my brain to handle, and the language-hopping between French, English, and German depending on who wandered into the conversation proved to be both exhilarating and exhausting. After a several hours of this (and three great plays), my friend and I were ready to venture home and sleep. 

The next day was spent mostly outside exploring, slimed in sunscreen and exalting in summer. We visited some of my old haunts and refreshed many memories, particularly that of the city map in my mind, which had gotten extremely rusty.

A wedding party at l'hôtel de ville came out for a photo-op, looking like the royal family.

Rounded a corner downtown to find the main memorial to the victims of the attack at the airport in March -- a hard reality check on an otherwise very bright and bubbly morning. Most of the flowers were dried in their clear plastic sheaths and looked like they had weathered many sunny days.

We ended up at the theater festival again that evening for 3 more plays and fun with the Germans. 

Another chère amie joined us the following day for further adventures & merriment. Hooray!

Much of the weekend was spent in a park at the city center, where the Fête de l'Iris was in full swing with free music and all sorts of groups sharing what they did best, from wildly costumed performers to dance troupes to magnificent mustache contest winners serving up beer, bakers handing out rhubarb tarte just because, scientists of all realms performing very fun and kid-friendly experiments, and don't get me started on the 100+ food trucks catering to thousands of locals and tourists, all blissed out on sunshine. The only check on the atmosphere were the guards checking bags of all people entering and exiting the park, and the arms with arms patrolling the grounds.

This was one of my favorite moments -- he was gently teaching her how to spar ("et on se défend, on se défend!") and she was rocking out, a total badass in purple sparkly face paint.

Someone had plastered the city in brussels sprouts.

That evening ended with a wonderful concert and a final walk through the dark city before a few hours of sleep and an early plane back to Hamburg. It was, for lack of a better word, a rejuvenating time, and a joyful one, and I am so grateful to mes amies who took me in and shared their time and space with their petite américaine. An added plus was my theater group winning second place at the festival (their first of three prizes at festivals for their performance of INVASION! -- all well deserved).

Flying low along the Dutch coast, fields of tulips, prime for the plucking.

Then on into Germany, tulips traded for acres of eye-popping rapeseed, highlighter yellow along the banks of the Elbe.

And finally, landing in Hamburg, skyline view giving the ol' heart a welcome home squeeze.

Next up: Back to the Land of Enchantment, and beyond.