The next
grand adventure brought us across the border to the Valle Verzasca, described in
tour books as an emerald green valley high in the mountains, dotted with
centuries-old stone villages. We awoke to sunny skies, packed some snacks,
hopped in the car, cranked the radio, and drove the few short minutes to the
border, where the Swiss agent made sure we didn’t have any goods to sell and let
us on our way. The road took us up and around the lake, eventually turning and
winding up and into the valley through tunnels and turns that were tight but
much more generous than those coming out of Pino. Our first stop was at the Contra Dam
on the Lago di Vogorno made famous by James Bond in GoldenEye and many
other films. There I saw someone bungee jump for the first time, and thought I
was going to have a heart attack as the woman plunged down 220 meters, diving
with an urmenschlike shriek. She made it back up though, as did the next
person and assumedly the next person and the next and the next.
From there
we continued on up the winding road, twixt green mountainsides and old, dark
stone villages, then eventually parked the car and climbed down into a magical,
overgrown grove to a mountain stream. The water was both clear and teal, and rushed
and rippled over stripy, sparkling gneiss stones. Jana, hardcorest of them all,
who had been there before and looked forward to the adrenaline rush that came
with immersing oneself in that barely liquid water, dove right in. Steven and I
took more convincing, and -- oh holy frozen mother -- was that cold. We all made it
in though, dipped ourselves in the calm pools next to the current, and then
swam across the stream to laze on the curved boulders on the other side. The
sun chose our most exposed moments to take a hike, so it was a little chillier
than we’d hoped, and when the raindrops started splatting we decided it was
time to pack up and continue our journey up the road.
Luckily the
rain got distracted elsewhere, and we were free to continue our adventure without any additional wetness. The sun and wooshing convertible wind
dried our hair in funny shapes, but there weren’t many people to comment as we
walked around sleepy villages, like here in Frasco.
(This one taken by Steven:)
Our last
stop was in Sonogno, where we wandered out of the village to a tall, splooshy
Froda Waterfall, where some neighboring goats were munching and snoozing on a cliff
ledge. More wading in c-c-cold, crystal clear water.
We were tired by the end, so drove the hour back around the lake and over the border to Pino with the top down, blasting the objectively bad pop music on the Swiss or Italian radio station. That evening we coated ourselves in bug spray and took the makings for Aperol Spritzes to the highest spot in the village, in front of the church, to watch evening fall over the lake and the first stars come out. A little black cat joined us and decided to be my friend after carefully checking to make sure I didn't have fleas.
A splendid day followed by a splendid night and many splendid days come.
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