Showing posts with label alps. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alps. Show all posts

Monday, September 26, 2016

In which the hills are alive with the sounds of the Wiesn.



Oh, what a weekend in that most Bavarian of capitals, that mecca of prachtvolle Tracht, and home to my friend Jules since she left our Baumhaus over a year ago. As our calendars finally coincided enough to allow for a visit, I flew south to Munich at a painfully early hour on Saturday morning and promptly and passionately slept the rest of the morning away while Jules tended to her studies. My second start to the day was much more pleasant and involved a lot of sunshine and umazing udon before hitting the Wiesn.

In the six years that I've lived in Germany, it took me the first two or so to figure out what this famous Oktoberfest was, another to figure out it's actually in September, and up until two days ago to go there. Ah, Oktoberfest, the Proud Birthplace of Bavarian Stereotypes. Proclaimed the "world's largest Volksfest", it is a very, very large fair where a very, very large number of people in dirndl and lederhosen pay a lot of money to drink a very, very large amount of beer out of very, very large beer steins. Of course there are also roller coasters and other rides that you might want to think twice about getting on after several steins and large quantities of meat and spätzle. Walking through it on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, it was very much like walking through the Hamburger Dom -- Hamburg's own very, very large triannual fair -- with the exception of the brewery tents and holy moley lederhosen. The majority of the crowd was dressed in cleavage-empowering dirndl dresses and "these-leather-shorts-will-make-any-macho-man-look-like-a-little-boy" lederhosen, from high-quality haute couture to the gaudiest, gauziest kitsch of the kitsch. And this all over the city, both locals and tourists (of all ethnicities) alike. Jules says it's not like that all the time, but for all the people who only visit Germany for Oktoberfest, I can certainly see why the beer-drinking, Tracht-wearing German stereotypes are so persistent. 

If you're thinking, "Gee, that kind of situation sounds like it could pose a few security hazards", you're not alone. In the wake of scary stuff in France and elsewhere, they upped security this year and were not allowing anyone to bring large bags into the fairgrounds, and were randomly checking the contents of smaller bags that were allowed in. Still not the safest, and honestly I don't think it would make much of a difference to anyone with a plan to do something terrible, but hey. Wiesn, ho!















Anyway, we walked through, had a good time people-watching, and then left for quieter streets and the most delicious ice cream I have ever experienced.

If you'd like to see more, I just discovered the webcams on the official Oktoberfest website (and am amazed that with all the money they make, their English-language site still says things like: "We expect woderfull weather for the 2nd Oktoberfest-Week").

Elsewhere, in Museumland, sunbathing.


So that was an entertaining cultural experience to check off the list, but the truly woderfull adventure and absolutes Highlight of the weekend started the next day on a packed train to Tegernsee -- a picturesque town on a lake about 50 km south of Munich and kick-off point for the Bavarian Alps. Ever since my time spent hiking in Austria last year, I've been dreaming of the Alpenland and wanting to get back. Fernweh at its finest. Therefore, I asked Jules if there was a way for us to go a-mountaining and yes, oh, yes, came the reply. Therefore, I strapped on the trusty hiking boots, we found the train, found a trail map, slathered on some sunscreen, agreed on a general direction and off we went through the town, along a creek, and up and up on a gentle trek to the Kreuzbergalm.










The trail was busy, especially at the old café at the top where the last buttermilk, Würstl and Kasbrot of the year was being served. People of all ages were enjoying the last of the warm weather, and to our particular delight, there were many happy dogs to cuddle with our eyes. 









We chose a different route coming down that luckily had more sheep than people. Just us and a couple o' leaping lambsies, clanging cowbells and the truly tangible warmth of the sun. And how neat that now, at the end of September with the leaves on the brink of yellow, it so often looked like a forest in springtime.






 
The people reappeared again en masse once we reached the town, and we wandered around for a while at our leisure. 



Why yes, those magical sunbeams do smell very strongly of incense.
 


This poofball pom-puppy was hilariously practicing its "attaque de puce!" on another dog's face.  


A trio of alphorn players was performing in front of the castle. I'd never heard them played live before and was impressed with their beautifully clear tones. Maybe it was the swigs of beer consumed by the players between each piece, though more likely it was was their years of practice and magical mustaches. 


We slowly wandered our way along the lake in the late evening sun before boarding a train back to Munich. 






One kickass burger and a deep sleep later, I found myself back on a train, a plane, and poof! back at my desk at work in Hamburg, as if the weekend had never happened. I might doubt it, too, if it weren't for the sore muscles and still-warm memories of a perfect weekend fresh in my mind -- not to mention a small sampling of photographic evidence. 

Thanks, Jules.  
 

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

In which the clouds feast on everything (Austria part V).




But before the clouds rolled in, there was yet another beautiful, sunny morning, another forgotten valley, another waterfall-stuffed river, and many more musical cows. This valley in particular was in the Sundergrund, which one finds after driving through a mountain and out into and along the green, green Zillergrund.















One thing I don't think I've mentioned yet is that the rocks tend to sparkle in this part of the world. Really sparkle. I'd be hiking along and all of a sudden a rock would catch the sun in just the right moment and leave me thinking, "Gee, I wonder who threw that disco ball out of the airplane window?!". The effect isn't nearly as impressive when photographed. After doing a little research, we figured that the majority of the glitz we were seeing was gneiss. Nice!


















More exciting weather moved in that afternoon, so we made pizza and stayed inside. 


We had a lot of rain and some dramatic thunderstorms during the last few days, though I've forgotten the what and when by now.





We wanted to go on one last hike on our last day and decided on a ski resort (closed for the season) further up the valley where we had not yet been. The weather seemed to be improving, but the cloud level never hung quite high enough to show us the alpine views. That was alright though -- we'd had plenty of those and the mist-soaked valley was pretty dramatic in itself.


























The sun was back again by the next morning, just in time to finish packing up the car and retrace our drive through the Gerlos Pass and on through other magnificent scenery. We still wanted to tour the ice cave we'd checked out briefly at the beginning of the trip, so headed back to Werfen.





The tour of the ice cave was pretty adventurous and very different from the caves I'd experienced before. Photography wasn't allowed inside (and for good reason) so I decided not to lug my camera along in the hot hot heat. The journey there was part of the experience -- first you drive up up up the mountain road to the commercial entrance, then hike a short distance to a cable car, take the cable car zip zip further up the mountain (during which you pretend not to be listening intently to the conversation next to you in which a girl from Massachusetts jokes around with some Austrian kids in English), then hug your way around the mountain curve for a while longer until you get to the cave entrance. There you are instructed to put on your coats and hats (which feels a little ridiculous because it's so hot outside), the tourers are lined up, and oil lamps are evenly distributed along the line. Then the tour starts and the line passes shrieking through a rough door in the wall, met on the other side by cold darkness and an impressively strong, freezing wind that puffs out all the oil lamps in a moment. The oil lamps are relit and voilà! Black. From the low glow of the oil lamps you can make out a giant mound of ice and a rickety, partly frozen-over staircase that will require all of your attention to ascend. The tour guide stops at various natural ice sculptures and illuminates them by striking magnesium flares, burning bright white. Ooohs and aaahs. You learn all about the Histories while trying to wrap your mind around the extreme temperature change, thinking, "Well duh, ice cave". The tour continues like this, up staircases, through narrow passages opening into giant rooms, and eventually down down down and out, where it is hot and the light is blinding. Psych. Later, you go to the shop and look at the postcard images, which are very impressive but not entirely truthful. I know because I was there, and the images I have in my mind are not clear and colorful, but rather fleeting, flare-lit moments in which I try to take in as many details as I can before the light burns out. 


All this is followed by the best Apfelstrudel of the trip and a drive back down the mountain, the Hohenwerfen Castle growing ever larger in the descent. 







From there we made our way back to Salzburg and flew home the next day, away from the mountains and back to that sweet, flat city I know so well.