Showing posts with label ostern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ostern. Show all posts

Monday, March 28, 2016

In which Easter is quiet we burn the hell out of winter.

The Easter holiday in Germany is a long one, with Good Friday and Easter Monday both being national holidays. This makes it an optimal time for traveling, going home for holiday binging, and long walks after said binging if the weather complies. I didn't get my act together in time to plan any trips this year and have thus stayed at home, dividing my time between sleeping through the rain and adventuring in times of less precipitation. Friday was rather miserable, fitting with its biblical reputation, but Saturday was extra gorgeous to make up for it. I found a friend to go hiking with me and we spent the glorious afternoon in the Sachsenwald to the east of Hamburg, where the trees were just getting ready to pop. Next weekend it should be bursting with lime green life.





That evening I found a few other companions and joined to masses on the banks of the Elbe to see the Osterfeuer -- the massive bonfires topped with creepy effigies symbolizing the burning away of winter. Massive container ships and brightly-lit tourist vessels patroled the waters along the beach in work and in play as the embers rose high into the sky. The lighting of the main fire was delayed a couple hours due to strong winds and was then carefully controlled and promptly put out by the fire department, but the mighty minutes in which that mountain of Christmas trees came ablaze made the waiting worthwhile. Rather a different way of celebrating the Vigil than in a dark church aglow with candlelight, the mysterious and ancient beauty of the Exsultet shimmering in the window panes, hovering in the hushed air, winding up to the rafters in the smoke of the newly-lit Paschal flame. Bonfires accompanied by Bier, Bratwurst, and Brezeln may not be as poetic, but it gets major points for alliteration.  






After arriving home late and drenched in smoke, I slept away most of Sunday morning (thanks, daylight savings time), the sky gray again and leaking most efficiently. After some spontaneous Kaffee & Kuchen with a friend, the sun had wandered back to town and I went for a walk around the harbor, dressed in its Sunday best.





I've always loved living in Hamburg, but every now and then it hits me all over again and I find myself agush with feelings of delight -- the walk this evening having just that effect. What luck, indeed, and thanks, universe.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

In which we celebrate a very Christiany holiday in a very Pagany fashion.


It's now time to take a little time to go back in time to this one time once upon a time when it was almost Easter and the world was aflame and the good pyromaniacs of the world rejoiced. If you have time, that is.

Some people celebrate Easter in a lily-scented church all gussied up for the resurrection. Some people celebrate Easter with delicious spreads and hardcore, multilingual scavenger hunts through the forests of Connecticut with family and adopted family on a quest for a Golden Egg. Some people celebrate Easter by stealthily wrapping up the house in string attached to shiny grass and goody-filled baskets, only to wake a few hours later to find that the housecats had very, very solidly foiled the plans of the Easter Spider and had had a wonderfully tangled time of it, too. Some people celebrate Easter by dangling plastic, brightly colored eggs from tree branches and enjoying the sight of them hopping in the breeze while cosily devouring rabbits squelched into chocolate molds from the comfort of their bunny slippers. Many Germans fall into this category.


However, many Germans also fall into the next category, being the category of people who celebrate Easter by pyramiding up all the old Christmas trees still loitering on street corners, as well as whatever other dry wood they can find, safely securing a humanoid straw figure atop the pyre o' woody booty, then gathering the neighborhood supply of neighbors and cute neighbor children and booze and burning that sucker to the ground. (Of course, I am well aware that this category also corresponds perfectly to, say, the first category, and in fact they could well be one and the same.)

Hamburg takes part in the Osterfeuer tradition bigtime. Many different neighborhoods have their own bonfire, the largest and most scenic of which can be found on the long, blonde, sandy beaches of Blankenese, which separate the Super Swanky Staircasey Posh Upon a Hill from the industrial, harborifically waving waters of the Elbe River. People from all over gather at sundown, armed with tinder, beer, good cheer, and meat on sticks. Other folks gather from across the mistygray waterway and can be seen aboard their various vessels docked softly in the settling dusk. Eventually the sun skips out of the sky to spark the bonfires in a big, flamebuoyant sort of way. Observe:








Wikipedia tells me that the Osterfeuer tradition is linked to that of the pastoral flame (ha, just googled "pastoral fire" and one of the first links on the list was "How to Fire Your Pastor"), ie. of bringing the light of the world back to the world and all that Totally Rad Action. Continuing along down the paragraph, Wiki tells me that Easter fires are also symbolic for burning winter away, inviting new growth, and hope for a good harvest. In many places, the ashes of the Osterfeuer were later spread across fields, thus giving the vegetables a tasty, pre-grilled flavor without having to go through the gruntwork of cleaning the grill afterward.



Of course, winter isn't the only symbol to find its smokin' hot demise amidst these sparkly flames. In many places (ie. Bavaria, quoth the Wiki), these bonfires are actually called various renditions of "Judasfeuer", meaning "Judas Burning(s)". Hence the hooded straw Menschen, so I suppose. The whole thing looked a little too triple K for my comfort, though I can't say I particularly felt any inclination to scale the pyramid and free the Judas from his impending doom either.



As this was Germany, there was naturally a lot of Bier involved, as well as Glühwein, hot chocolate with or without Rum, Wurst, and in my case, a fresh hot crêpe oozing with Kinder... Schokolade. Noms to the maxx while holding a chilly Easter Vigil.


And aaaaaaaas this was Hamburg, there was naturally a ginormous cruise ship involved. I can't say a massive, several-thousand-nightclubbing-person-carrying ocean liner was what I expected to come honking down the river while observing a several-thousand-year-old tradition, but I can't say I was surprised either.


On the subject of cruise ships, we haven't had any excellent mistranslations from my work in a while-- let's fix that right now! Ahem.

3.  For health-conscious the 'Spa Carnival Menus' are offered – a light and healthy diversion. Besides the 24-hour pizza and soft ice offer, also a sushi bar is onboard.

2.  [In cabin descriptions:] The comfortable and lovingly equipment is created with attention to details.

1.  Sports lovers are at best preserved in the fitness centre.

I've got still got a few better gems up my sleeve to whip out at a warmer date. Just you wait.

Righto, back to the past! There was beach, there was fire, there were revellers, there were resurrections, and eventually there was enough cold in my bones to send me trekking back up the many twisty, twirly staircases upon that Very Posh Hill in the direction of my bus and my bed. All was quiet, the air smelled freshly of saltwater and burning Judases, and I smiled my way into sleep with the sweet expectation of a sky full o' church bells on the coming morn.


(...Blastoff!
The (ship name) embodies relaxation, fun and entertainment for the whole family. Let the unique atmosphere seduce you.

That's right-- fun and seduction for the WHOLE FAMILY!)